When someone casually mentioned that “The Guest reminded them of the kind of fine dining you can only find in New York,” chef Brian De Souza looked unmoved. While he understood the comparison — De Souza trained in the Big Apple and spent time at Eric Ripert’s world-renowned French restaurant, Le Bernardin — he felt that the compliment was misplaced.
“This is a Denver restaurant, not a New York restaurant,” he said. “I want you to feel like you’re in Denver. If I wanted you to eat in New York, I could buy you a ticket there.”
Brian De Souza and his wife and business partner Sydney Younggreen at The Guest in Denver. (Lucy Beaugard)
But ever since De Souza and his wife and business partner Sydney Younggreen began opening — and closing — their restaurant concepts in Denver, it’s been hard not to equate them with the big city. The romance of the dim lights, secluded booths, opulent decor and a bar laced with expensive and exclusive spirits all feel larger than life.
They began in 2023 with The Regular, at 1432 Market Street, which served an a la carte menu inspired by De Souza’s global travels, with semi-camouflaged flourishes from Peru, where he was born. At the same time, they held semi-regular dinners in a smaller attached space that they called The Guest. But the concepts weren’t working, so De Souza and Younggreen closed them in February and converted The Regular into a 200-person reception venue for private events.
Now, The Guest has returned with a new tasting menu format and a new financial backer.
Culinary Creative Group CEO Juan Padro was a fan of The Regular since he first dined there during its early days, and he has been talking about it ever since. “I love those kids. I think they’re going to be very successful. And I’m glad I’m able to help them,” he said. While De Souza and Younggreen had been leaning towards a change, it may have been Padro’s suggestion that finally pushed them over the edge. “We all talked through it. I recommended returning to a tasting. They agreed.”
The dishes at The Guest in Denver are often served with elaborate presentations. (Lucy Beaugard)
Tasting menus, though often more expensive than à la carte dinners, have become popular in Denver over the past few years at highly regarded restaurants like The Wolf’s Tailor, Bruto, Beckon and Margot (all of which have Michelin stars). Similar to omakase-style meals (Kizaki, Ukiyoe), tasting menus have a fixed price and a set number of courses that the chef chooses.
The price for an 11-course meal at The Guest is $190 per person, with beverage pairings costing more: an additional $125 per person for wine, sake and cocktails; five wines for $145; or six more upscale wines for $325.
Padro’s company owns or has an equity stake in more than a dozen well-known bars and restaurants in Denver, including Ash’Kara, Bar Dough, Fox and the Hen, Kumoya, Ay Papi, Mister Oso, Senor Bear and Magna Kainan.
Over the summer De Souza and Younggreen joined Padro’s roster, still retaining ownership over The Guest, but also becoming equity holders in Culinary Creative.
The Guest reopened in November and was immediately booked out through the end of 2025. New reservations become available on the 1st of every month for the following two months. Seatings run twice a night, Thursdays through Saturdays. As patrons arrive, they are seated at The Regular’s bar for a welcome cocktail before being escorted to the space next door.
And the atmosphere of the 22-seat room is decidedly sexy. “We’re not trying to do it,” grinned Younggreen. “But people use that adjective a lot.” During one meal, Erykah Badu was played no less than four times. Sade played twice. Velvet napkins, ornate handblown glassware and a visible pass with Hollywood-ready heat lamps solidify the scene as sultry and cinematic.
“We’re trying to make it a tactile experience,” she added.
As for the food, De Souza largely focuses on the savory dishes, with Younggreen handling pastry and operations.
The menu is set to change roughly three times a year, focusing on Colorado’s off-kilter seasonality. Tables are set with a welcome letter, handwritten by De Souza that describes what inspired the meal. “Fall is my favorite time of year. It’s a time for reflection and readiness for what’s to come,” read the most recent version, which will continue into the winter. It includes kanpachi crudo, lobster with burnt cream and aji amarillo, and a duck donut.
Many dishes arrive on diorama-like structures, completely composed of greenery that the pair pluck from their own garden. And while the plates are ingredient-forward, the food is neither regional nor seasonal.
“With The Regular, we were trying to cater to all the different palates. Versus with The Guest, we’re creating an experience where you’re coming on a journey that’s fun and whimsical,” said Younggreen. “With an a la carte restaurant, it’s like being an artist who takes commissions. You get to be creative within a certain set of restraints. Then with The Guest, you’re creating something from the heart, with zero influence from the outside.”
“The food gets way more thought. You’re playing a whole different game. There’s no second chances,” added De Souza.
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