As an Aussie who grew up by the ocean, I take an almost ecstatic pleasure in being in water, as if air is sometimes too heavy. I particularly seek out natural mineral water springs, rich in magnesium and sulphur, as it is one of the earth’s most restorative experiences—all the more precious in a desert environment.
There’s a slow-burn, wide-angle drama to arriving at the Jacumba Hot Springs Hotel, a boutique wellness hideaway marooned in the high desert mountains an hour east of San Diego Airport. The road unspools through boulder-strewn emptiness, the sky goes CinemaScope, and just when you think you’ve driven clean off the map, reality flickers and you suddenly feel beamed into another era entirely.
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