Sick of ski traffic and crowds? Try these family-friendly winter activities instead

I’m hardly a thrill-seeker. When it comes to outdoor adventure, I’ve generally opted for tame hobbies over riskier endeavors. It goes without saying, then, that scaling frozen waterfalls wasn’t anywhere near my bucket list – until last winter, that is, when my curiosity got the best of me.

On a lark, I hired two guides from Golden Mountain Guides to lead me and my family on a beginner ice-climb, an adventure billed specifically for scaredy cats like me and those with no actual experience ascending frozen terrain.

After passing a “kick test” in a nearby parking lot, I pledged to our guides, Nathan and Joey, that we’d packed the essentials: extra socks, gloves, water, and snacks that wouldn’t freeze. Then we followed their Subaru into Clear Creek Canyon, parked at an unmarked trailhead, and hiked across a frozen river toward Secret Falls, a 100-foot sheet of solid ice tucked in a conifer forest a few miles west of downtown Golden.

Joey must have seen me glowering at the massive, shimmering icefall. “Going up isn’t mandatory,” he joked, “but coming down is.”

I insisted on climbing first, before I lost my nerve, and to my utter surprise, the crampons gripped, the tools worked, and the ascent felt… oddly secure.

My son and I made it more than halfway up the waterfall (higher than I’d expected), and my husband reached the top. The four-hour excursion was exhilarating and exhausting, and as we headed home on 6th Avenue, I was grateful we’d dodged I-70 ski traffic for a new pursuit that was kid-approved and relatively economical.

At $159 a head, our private half-day climb was a steal compared to Aspen’s $279 peak-season, single-day lift tickets. (Vail’s now tops $300 per person.) Last year, I remember reading somewhere that it’s officially cheaper to fly the kids to Paris now that a weeklong Colorado ski vacation at a major resort can cost a family of four upwards of $10,000.

There are a few local “bargains” when it comes to downhill skiing, of course. Single-day lift tickets at Granby Ranch start at $144 per person on peak weekends, and it’s hard to beat the “Ski, Swim, Stay” package in Glenwood Springs, which combines lift tickets at Sunlight Mountain Resort, lodging at the Hotel Colorado or Glenwood Hot Springs Lodge and a visit to Glenwood Hot Springs Pool. Or you could drive to southeastern Wyoming. At Snowy Range Ski and Recreation Area, single-day lift tickets start at $30 for children; $50 for adults, plus the 4 and under crowd ski free.

But Colorado’s winter appeal extends way beyond chairlifts and après ski patios. We’ve rounded up plenty of fresh ways to enjoy fresh powder this season without waiting in a lift line.

Belay On

If you’re curious about ice climbing, it’s not a bad idea to hire a guide. I’ve had great luck with the AMGA-certified ones from Golden Mountain Guides, and friends have recommended Denver Mountain Guiding, denvermountainguiding.com, and Alpine to the Max, alpinetothemax.com, both of which offer privately guided ice climbing on the Front Range.

If you can spare the half-day drive, make the 300-something-mile trek from the metro area to Ouray, a veritable mecca for ice-climbing enthusiasts. With kids, start at Ouray Ice Park. Located in the super-scenic Uncompahgre Gorge, this free, public park contains over 150 named ice and mixed climbs. Gurus from Skyward Mountaineering are available to teach your family introductory skills on the site’s low-angle slabs. (Not cheap, but epic fun nonetheless.)

“There are inherent hazards to ice climbing,” explains Skyward Mountaineering co-owner and guide Micah Lewkowitz, but he adds that climbing at Ouray Ice Park is “low commitment” since you won’t have to walk far to get to your route and there are benches available throughout the park – plus a special kid zone near the entrance.

Consider timing your trip around an annual ice-themed event: January 9-11, there’s the All In Ice Fest, as well as Ouray Ice Fest, a massive fundraiser held January 22-25.

And speaking of ice-themed winter jubilees, Breckenridge hosts its International Snow Sculpture Championships at Riverwalk Center, 136 S. Main St. From January 24 to February 3, artist teams from around the world hand-carve 25-ton blocks of snow into dazzling masterpieces. If at all possible, view the sculptures Sunday through Wednesday, when reservations aren’t required.

Sledding-Hill Thrills

At Great Sand Dunes National Park near Alamosa, a dusting of powder turns Colorado’s beloved dunes into a surreal downhill playground where daring sledders can launch themselves down white-capped “slopes” for a $25 per vehicle entry fee.

By December, visitation has dropped off considerably from the summer and fall months – high temperatures average 36°F, with lows near 11°F. Snow usually falls once a week on the dunes, creating opportunities for sledding or cross-country skiing. The sand hardens, too, making seasonal hiking easier. Visitors should bring their own sleds – the park doesn’t do rentals – and adequate cold-weather gear. Roads are cleared quickly; still, it’s smart to check the park’s website for updated forecasts before traveling.

On the Front Range, Windsor’s newish Hoedown Hill boasts one of the longest sledding runs in the state (it’s nearly 1,100 feet long). Rent tubes on site, and be sure to bring your mittens and stamina since this hill is hike-up, sled-down, repeat.

Sledding at YMCA of the Rockies Estes Park Center, is always a blast. The hill is just south of Dorsey Lake, near the main entrance. Guests can BYO-sled or check one out from the organization’s Sweet Memorial Program Building. Note: A waiver is required, and you’ll need a day pass to participate if you aren’t lodging at the resort. If you do opt to stay on-site, consider booking a cabin; the no-frills lodge rooms are clean and comfortable, but to this snooty traveler, they stir up flashbacks of university housing.

Nordic Adventures

Cue the smug eye-rolls: I think Nordic skiing is a billion times better than alpine skiing. (Yeah, I said it.) Eldora Nordic Center rents cross-country skis (both classic and skate) for all ages and puts on a wonderful 2-hour-long learn-to-ski lesson – though families can also venture out solo onto the resort’s 40 kilometers of groomed Nordic trails. Prepare to be amazed by the solitude.

I enjoy snowshoeing at Eldora, too, and in years I don’t feel like paying for a Nordic pass – they start at $89 for a 3-day ticket – I’ll hop on the Jenny Creek Trail, a totally free out-and-back Forest Service route dipping into Roosevelt National Forest. (Note: the trail’s free, but you’ll still need a scannable pass from the Nordic Center to get through the little gate.)

Closer to Denver, Roxborough State Park has excellent, well-marked snowshoe trails. Try the Fountain Valley Trail Loop, for starters. At Golden Gate Canyon State Park, meanwhile, 12 well-marked hiking trails are open to snowshoers (and cross-country skiers) in the winter. The best are the Raccoon Loop and Mule Deer Trail. Day-use passes into the park are $12 per vehicle.

In Fort Collins, Kestrel Fields is a new natural area and a 73-acre link in a corridor connecting the Cache la Poudre River to the foothills. Strap on crampons or snowshoes, then embark on a 1.4-mile trek along a flat, soft-surface trail. Keep an eye out for American kestrels, migrating sparrows, and bluebirds drifting against a snowy backdrop.

If the mountains are calling, check out ACES Snowshoe Tour, offering a 2-hour jaunt in Snowmass that departs from Elk Camp. From there, a naturalist guides families around the mountain, through spruce and fir forests, while spouting off facts about winter ecology. (Yes, you can also go out on your own in Snowmass, but doesn’t a naturalist-led excursion sound lovely?) Whatever you do, don’t miss Snowmass S’mores. From opening day on, guests of all ages get free s’mores, starting at 3:30 p.m. in Base Village and on the Snowmass Mall (look for the carts that resemble oversized marshmallows).

All Aboard

Chairlifts ferry you up the same mountain all day. For a more scenic ride, you might try one of Colorado’s historic railroads. Many keep running through the snow.

Departing from Devil’s Gate Depot, the narrow-gauge Georgetown Loop Railroad operates in November and December, taking riders on an hour-long, round-trip, holiday-themed journey past frozen creeks and evergreens flanked with powder. Book early since tickets sell out.

On the Western Slope, there’s the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Departing from the town’s cute-as-a-button depot, the 5-plus-hour “Cascade Canyon” excursion takes wintertime riders straight into the Rocky Mountains, where you’ll glimpse incredible views of the San Juan National Forest while traveling alongside the Animas River. Expect a 60-minute layover in Cascade Canyon, which is the perfect spot for a fireside boxed lunch and pictures for next year’s holiday card.

If a scenic train ride makes you yawn, then maybe a horse-drawn sleigh ride is more your speed. Located on YMCA of the Rockies Snow Mountain Ranch’s sprawling Granby property, Rocky Mountain Stables supplies winter sleigh rides with all the cozy touches: warm woolen blankets, jingling bells and hot cocoa pit stops.

Winter trail rides are another equestrian option, and YMCA of the Rockies also partners with Redemption Dog Sled Tours to offer dog sledding – the most popular option being a 2-mile, family-friendly loop winding through open meadows with breathtaking mountain views. (Fun fact: Redemption allows families to adopt their retired snow dogs.)

Starry Nights

Long, dark winter nights are the perfect time to try astronomy due to clearer, more stable air, enhancing visibility.

Colorado has quite a few International Dark Sky Parks, but if you want a little extra instruction, try heading to CU Boulder’s Fiske Planetarium and the adjacent Sommers-Bausch Observatory, offering free open houses on most Friday evenings, at 8 p.m., when CU classes are in session. Visit the observatory’s website for details.

Likewise, Chamberlin Observatory, 2930 E. Warren Ave., in Denver, partners with the Denver Astronomical Society to put on special “Public Nights” all year long. Registered guests are invited inside the observatory for an informative, multi-media astronomy presentation followed by a look through the observatory’s 20-inch Alvan Clark-Saegmuller refractor telescope (weather permitting). Participating children must be at least 42 inches tall; register in advance through the DAS website.

DAS also hosts monthly “Mini-Star Parties” at sundown, with smaller telescopes, on the south lawn preceding Chamberlin Observatory. These sessions are free; no registration required. In Colorado Springs, the Space Foundation Discovery Center hosts weekly workshops and monthly science events that help families explore the night sky together. Check out the “Events” tab on the organization’s website for specific details.

Don’t Forget to Indulge

Après ski cocktails might be tempting, but so is traditional Nordic wellness, and there’s nothing so indulgent as soaking off a day in a steaming mineral pool while snowflakes swirl overhead.

In fact, hot springs might just be winter’s best-kept secret – and they’re decidedly family-friendly. Generally, hot springs resorts are open 365 days a year, and it’s pure magic sinking into piping hot water on a really cold afternoon. Try the 20-pool Springs Resort in Pagosa, Glenwood Springs’s Iron Mountain Hot Springs or Mt. Princeton Hot Springs Resort, offering creek-side soaking in Nathrop.

Strawberry Park Hot Springs packs a big punch for nature lovers with its tucked-away locale in Routt National Forest, mere minutes from downtown Steamboat Springs. Be aware that from November 1 to May 1, you’ll need a 4WD vehicle equipped with snow tires and/or chains to access the hot springs park (it’s a law). If you don’t have the set-up, no problem, you can book a shuttle. You’ll also need cash (no credit cards or checks) and – last thing – the site becomes less family-friendly after dark, when clothing is optional.

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